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Modifications : Titanium x large spoiler

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Author: HugaKuga
Subject: Titanium x large spoiler
Posted: 09 Feb 2014 at 9:40pm

Am sure someones fitted one ...
 
Found it, KingKuga fitted one
Originally posted by KING KUGA KING KUGA wrote:

Hiya, not been on here for a while but pleased to say have fitted my large rear spoiler now and looks just like the one in the previous picture submitted so i wont bother posting a pic of mine, but suffice to say the rear brake lamp lead would not stretch without removing it from its retaining clip but once removed from said clip it reache just fine, the washer hose however will not reach so you have to get a new piece of the same diameter ( mine came off a handy new piece of washing machine pressure switch hose) and join it using the joining piece that is moulded and is a part of the new larger spoiler and bobs your uncle. One issue i did note is that the handling seems to be much more secure above 68 mph although i could'nt get more than 148 mph on the speedo (indicated) that i could before so from that i take it the spoiler is doing it's job - and it did'nt fall off which is a bonus !!
 

MK2 General Discussion : Delays to Mk2 orders

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Author: neiltm11
Subject: Delays to Mk2 orders
Posted: 09 Feb 2014 at 10:10pm

I wouldn't expect anyone to be excited knowing that their vauxhall is close to being delivered

Modifications : Titanium x large spoiler

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Author: KUGA4WD
Subject: Titanium x large spoiler
Posted: 09 Feb 2014 at 10:24pm

Hi kuga555

Yes I fitted one bought it from e-bay.
Had a friend spray it and fitted it myself.
Had to extend the brake light cable and also the wash tube.
The new spoiler came with wire , cable heat shrink and extra tube.
It is fitted with 4 bolts the original was fitted with screws.

Hope that helps

Modifications : Titanium x large spoiler

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Author: Kuga555
Subject: Titanium x large spoiler
Posted: 09 Feb 2014 at 10:57pm

Excellent, guys, thanks for that. Fitting the larger spoiler and also the DRLs are the only things I want to add to my Kuga. Helpful to know in advance what I'm up against to get them both done. Hopefully in the next few months Smile

Idle Chit Chat : Calling all Kuga owning caravanners

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Author: oldman
Subject: Calling all Kuga owning caravanners
Posted: 09 Feb 2014 at 11:07pm

No problem Kettleman
They do those as well, They even make helicopter covers they say they can make a cover for anything.
Hope you get what you want.

To Rolfieboy great that all works just did not want you to have any problems as you went away, great to know the ATC works well, not tried mine yet, happy caravanning.

MK1 General Discussion : Headlamp bulbs blowing

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Author: Fillco
Subject: Headlamp bulbs blowing
Posted: 10 Feb 2014 at 5:48am

Out of curiosity are there any more technical details of this problem, like what value resisitor is being fitted (so drops the voltage to the lamps all the time reducing light outout)

Edited by Fillco - 3 hours 11 minutes ago at 5:49am

Newbies : Another Newbie fron West Lothian, Scotland

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Author: hkp57
Subject: Another Newbie fron West Lothian, Scotland
Posted: 10 Feb 2014 at 7:57am

Al
   Its too early to say yet, other than the driver to buy it and upgrade was:-
 
  1. It was newer
  2. Has Powershift (Getting older and lazy)
  3. AWD (New house is rural)
  4. White (Its faster in White)
  5. High spec (can never have enough gadgets)
  6. Got a great deal on the trade in price.

MK2 General Discussion : Rear Heater/Blower

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Author: nigel129
Subject: Rear Heater/Blower
Posted: 10 Feb 2014 at 8:31am

Is it just my car or does anyone elses rear heater (behind Handbrake) seem to blow very little, and what little there is is barley luke warm. Tried all the combinations with the heater controls, closed all other vents in the front, and still no improvement.

Newbies : Another Newbie fron West Lothian, Scotland

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Author: Fillco
Subject: Another Newbie fron West Lothian, Scotland
Posted: 10 Feb 2014 at 8:34am

It ticked all the boxes then.

MK2 General Discussion : I've done it...again!!!

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Author: Kuga Jon
Subject: I've done it...again!!!
Posted: 10 Feb 2014 at 10:07pm

After much deliberation between leasing/buying outright etc I agreed a deal today on a brand new Kuga Titanium X Sport Handshake

Went for the awesome Deep Impact Blue finish with family pack and hands free tailgate as options.  Engine is the AWD 163 manual TDCi!

Now the surprising bit - the dealer had one built and in stock and I'll take delivery of it on the afternoon of March 1.  Not a hard decision to come back to the Kuga after 2 years of questionable S-Max ownership - I'll miss the space but not the reliability issues that came with it!
Now I just have to wait Tongue

MK2 General Discussion : Mk2 Kuga fuel consumption / Miles Per Gallon MPG

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Author: dogsbody
Subject: Mk2 Kuga fuel consumption / Miles Per Gallon MPG
Posted: 10 Feb 2014 at 10:42pm

ours was showing 30 miles to empty yesterday, filled the tank (50.05ltr) so must have still had 10ltr left in it, worked out the mpg and its doing what the trip says @ 34mpg 

MK1 How-To? : How to service your Haldex Gen3

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Author: tarmo120
Subject: How to service your Haldex Gen3
Posted: 10 Feb 2014 at 11:38pm

This topic is about Generation 3 Haldex but Generation 4 is mostly the same, just the location of filter and pump is different.
I will show you how to change the oil pump, oil filter and how to change all the oil.
The methods I have used to service my Haldex were probably not what the service would have used, but they worked for me. Also just to be clear, this is only for people who know what they are doing.
I mean if you have never been under a car, I would not recommend you do this by yourself.

Before you start doing anything think about safety. This is something anyone should pay attention to while doing something (in this case) under the car.

I put the car in to neutral, put the handbrake on and brake shoes at the rear axle. Then I put the front of the car on jack stands. So when I turn the driveshaft by hand, the front wheels would turn.
This step is needed to remove the 6 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the driveshaft flange. You can't remove all the bolts when the driveshaft is stationary. There is just no room.
Also before you start removing the bolts on the driveshaft, I recommend you to mark the position of the driveshaft in relation to the flange. See picture.


Now once you have made a mark or line, you can start removing the 6 bolts. I just used a L-shaped long allen wrench and broke them loose. Since the front wheels are in the air, I jused a quick pull-push method for breaking them loose. Pulled the wrench towards me and while the shaft was spinning I quickly pushed it, causing the bolts to come free. I forgot to pictures of this step.

Now you should have the 6 bolts removed completely and you should have a mark/line on the flange and driveshaft.
This step doesn't neccessarily have to be done, but it felt like it helped.
I removed the 4 bolts that hold the metal plate that holds the driveshaft support. This is about 70cm to the front of the car from the haldex flange. This provided me s bit more room to wiggle the driveshaft.

Anyways next step would be getting the driveshaft out from the tight fit in the flange.
When you look closely the back of the flange, it has 2 holes 180 degrees from one another.
These are 8mm holes. I used on M8x20mm bolt in the hole and just hammered the driveshaft out.
A small distance at a time and you should hammer it equally.

Once the end of the driveshaft is out of the flange, it should drop about 5cm and still be held on by the flange. This is because the end of the driveshaft is not straight but it has a bump at the center.
Now I used my hands and pushed the driveshaft towards toe front of the car and managed to free it from the flange. I also used some zip ties to hold the driveshaft not falling down.

Now hardest part is over. At least for me it was like this. Now you can deal with the Haldex unit.
I completely removed the Haldex from the car to clean it. But this is normally not neccesary.

Next step would be removing the flange from the Haldex.
There is actually a tool that makes is easy, but I found that my hands also work.
This tool is to hold the flange from rotating.

I just used my air impact gun and very carefully removed the nut from the flange. I actually held the flange with my left hand and was very careful not to wrap my gloves to anything.

Once the nut is removed, I took a small hammer and while rotating ang bylling by hand I gave the flange a few gentle hits until it was loose.

Now you want to change the oil filter and take a look at the oil pump. The location of oil filter is under an aluminium cover that looks like this. These are M4 bolts but I forgot what size allen they use.


When removing the aluminium cover on the filter you will see a plastic cover blocking you from removing the filter. This cover has a ''nose'' that you can put a screwdrive through it. BUT be VERY careful not to break the ''nose''. Because once you break it, it is very difficult to remove this plastic.
You can put a screw in it or whatever to remove it, because a new one will come with new filter.
Next take the filter out.
Note that everything you remove(aluminium cap, plastic cover, spring, filter and bolts) come new with the filter kit.


Next you should take out the pump to make sure the pump filter is clean.
The pump is the black thing that has a wire coming out of it. The pump uses same size bolts that are in the filter cap.


The pump might not want to come out right away. It comes out straight so use your imagination how to remove it. I wiggled it out. Used a 45mm plastid sewage pipe. The clamp is there so the pipe would not stretch so much.
Also note that while the pump comes out straight, you don't want to damage the white filter on the pump. Once that is gone, you have to buy a new pump.


You want to make sure that this filter is CLEAN. Note that the pump is assembled with TORX bolts. Not allen.



Now we come to the part where you need to drain all the oil from the Haldex. I didn't see any actual DRAIN plug on the Haldex unit. So I just removed the unit and it drained that way.
There are 4 bolts holding the unit to the rear differential. 3 bolts are easy to get to. But the 4th just above the oil filter is a real pain.
They are 10mm bolts if I remember correctly. I used a combination of short and long sockets and my fingers. Really bad spot to put a bolt to.
Also for this step I would recommend you bolt off the Haldex controller. This is held on by the same allen bolts similar to the filter and oil pump. But these are longer.
And just gently pull it off. There are 2 sensors inside.


For draining oil just remove the bolts, pull the unit a bit forwars and let it drain a few seconds.

Installation is very similar to removal.

Put the Haldex back, install the bolts, controller, filter and pump and everything else.
Now when installing the flange. I just cleaned everything and added some bearing grease behind the flange as there is visible a bearing. Also I added a bit of red Loctite threadlock to the flange nut. And tightened it using same method I used for removal. Just be careful.
At this point you still have to put the oil in and install the driveshaft.

The oil filler cap is located at the same side of the differential as the Haldex controller. At the side of the differential case there is a cap. Using a pretty big allen wrench I was able to open it up.
There should go about 800ml of oil when you completely drained the Haldex. The fill plug hole is also the control hole. Once it overflows the normal level is met.

Oh yeah, and this is the oil I got from Volvo.

Now close the cap hole and install the driveshaft same way you removed it.

Oh man this was a LONG writeup. Sorry for lack of pictures. If anyone has any questions I am happy to help out. I hope I got everything right because it's 2am here.


Edited by tarmo120 - 9 hours 20 minutes ago at 11:40pm

MK2 General Discussion : Gap between rear seats & boot cover

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Author: Escapism
Subject: Gap between rear seats & boot cover
Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 12:48am

Finally a solution to this problem!

http://www.amazon.com/Juntu-Retractable-Luggage-Black-Escape/dp/B00DNX31ES/?tag=viglink121613-20

MK2 General Discussion : Gap between rear seats & boot cover

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Author: itman330
Subject: Gap between rear seats & boot cover
Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 1:07am

Hi there

is this not standard issue? My Kuga Mk2 Titanium (Oct 13) came with one of these fitted. Unfortunately, I had to take it out as I've fitted a dog travel gate / barrier behind the back seats, which rather precludes the use of this retractable cargo space cover.

Or have I misinterpreted the significance, and this actually does the job of the much-vaunted 'thingy'?

MK2 General Discussion : Mk2 Kuga fuel consumption / Miles Per Gallon MPG

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Author: itman330
Subject: Mk2 Kuga fuel consumption / Miles Per Gallon MPG
Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 1:16am

Yeah, mine is all over the place too - full tank suggests I have DTE of about 114 miles, and the DTE goes down by about 1 mile for every 8 miles I actually do. It's booked in for Thursday to be 'investigated'. I'll be advising the service dept that there is a 'BIOS' / software upgrade that needs to be applied, if they don't readily offer it!

MK2 General Discussion : I've done it...again!!!

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Author: itman330
Subject: I've done it...again!!!
Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 1:20am

Well done that man! Enjoy what's coming.

Modifications : Wind deflectors

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Author: SteveA
Subject: Wind deflectors
Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 1:59am

I have fitted a set of 4 like the onespictured above.  They just stick on andhave no metal attachment pieces.  These are the ones supplied by Ford down here in NZ.

They are fairly noisy, on the driver's side anyway, but Ihave managed to silence that a little with a bit of aerodynamicexperimentation.
 
I didn't get them for driving as much as being able to leave the windows partly open in hot weather. 

Steve



Edited by SteveA - 6 hours 58 minutes ago at 2:02am

MK2 General Discussion : Mk2 Kuga fuel consumption / Miles Per Gallon MPG

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Author: nigel129
Subject: Mk2 Kuga fuel consumption / Miles Per Gallon MPG
Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 7:30am

Well i just know their going to try to blame the TowBar install i had done just after the upgrade, even though it was done by a third party company that actually fits fords towbars locally for ford. I just hope the next upgrade or tweak doesnt screwup the coding i had done for the TSP and Rev sensors. Oh why didnt i go VW.

MK1 How-To? : How to service your Haldex Gen3

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Author: krugerandsmith
Subject: How to service your Haldex Gen3
Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 7:49am

Originally posted by tarmo120 tarmo120 wrote:


This topic is about Generation 3 Haldex but Generation 4 is mostly the same, just the location of filter and pump is different.
I will show you how to change the oil pump, oil filter and how to change all the oil.
The methods I have used to service my Haldex were probably not what the service would have used, but they worked for me. Also just to be clear, this is only for people who know what they are doing.
I mean if you have never been under a car, I would not recommend you do this by yourself.

Before you start doing anything think about safety. This is something anyone should pay attention to while doing something (in this case) under the car.

I put the car in to neutral, put the handbrake on and brake shoes at the rear axle. Then I put the front of the car on jack stands. So when I turn the driveshaft by hand, the front wheels would turn.
This step is needed to remove the 6 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the driveshaft flange. You can't remove all the bolts when the driveshaft is stationary. There is just no room.
Also before you start removing the bolts on the driveshaft, I recommend you to mark the position of the driveshaft in relation to the flange. See picture.


Now once you have made a mark or line, you can start removing the 6 bolts. I just used a L-shaped long allen wrench and broke them loose. Since the front wheels are in the air, I jused a quick pull-push method for breaking them loose. Pulled the wrench towards me and while the shaft was spinning I quickly pushed it, causing the bolts to come free. I forgot to pictures of this step.

Now you should have the 6 bolts removed completely and you should have a mark/line on the flange and driveshaft.
This step doesn't neccessarily have to be done, but it felt like it helped.
I removed the 4 bolts that hold the metal plate that holds the driveshaft support. This is about 70cm to the front of the car from the haldex flange. This provided me s bit more room to wiggle the driveshaft.

Anyways next step would be getting the driveshaft out from the tight fit in the flange.
When you look closely the back of the flange, it has 2 holes 180 degrees from one another.
These are 8mm holes. I used on M8x20mm bolt in the hole and just hammered the driveshaft out.
A small distance at a time and you should hammer it equally.

Once the end of the driveshaft is out of the flange, it should drop about 5cm and still be held on by the flange. This is because the end of the driveshaft is not straight but it has a bump at the center.
Now I used my hands and pushed the driveshaft towards toe front of the car and managed to free it from the flange. I also used some zip ties to hold the driveshaft not falling down.

Now hardest part is over. At least for me it was like this. Now you can deal with the Haldex unit.
I completely removed the Haldex from the car to clean it. But this is normally not neccesary.

Next step would be removing the flange from the Haldex.
There is actually a tool that makes is easy, but I found that my hands also work.
This tool is to hold the flange from rotating.

I just used my air impact gun and very carefully removed the nut from the flange. I actually held the flange with my left hand and was very careful not to wrap my gloves to anything.

Once the nut is removed, I took a small hammer and while rotating ang bylling by hand I gave the flange a few gentle hits until it was loose.

Now you want to change the oil filter and take a look at the oil pump. The location of oil filter is under an aluminium cover that looks like this. These are M4 bolts but I forgot what size allen they use.


When removing the aluminium cover on the filter you will see a plastic cover blocking you from removing the filter. This cover has a ''nose'' that you can put a screwdrive through it. BUT be VERY careful not to break the ''nose''. Because once you break it, it is very difficult to remove this plastic.
You can put a screw in it or whatever to remove it, because a new one will come with new filter.
Next take the filter out.
Note that everything you remove(aluminium cap, plastic cover, spring, filter and bolts) come new with the filter kit.


Next you should take out the pump to make sure the pump filter is clean.
The pump is the black thing that has a wire coming out of it. The pump uses same size bolts that are in the filter cap.


The pump might not want to come out right away. It comes out straight so use your imagination how to remove it. I wiggled it out. Used a 45mm plastid sewage pipe. The clamp is there so the pipe would not stretch so much.
Also note that while the pump comes out straight, you don't want to damage the white filter on the pump. Once that is gone, you have to buy a new pump.


You want to make sure that this filter is CLEAN. Note that the pump is assembled with TORX bolts. Not allen.



Now we come to the part where you need to drain all the oil from the Haldex. I didn't see any actual DRAIN plug on the Haldex unit. So I just removed the unit and it drained that way.
There are 4 bolts holding the unit to the rear differential. 3 bolts are easy to get to. But the 4th just above the oil filter is a real pain.
They are 10mm bolts if I remember correctly. I used a combination of short and long sockets and my fingers. Really bad spot to put a bolt to.
Also for this step I would recommend you bolt off the Haldex controller. This is held on by the same allen bolts similar to the filter and oil pump. But these are longer.
And just gently pull it off. There are 2 sensors inside.


For draining oil just remove the bolts, pull the unit a bit forwars and let it drain a few seconds.

Installation is very similar to removal.

Put the Haldex back, install the bolts, controller, filter and pump and everything else.
Now when installing the flange. I just cleaned everything and added some bearing grease behind the flange as there is visible a bearing. Also I added a bit of red Loctite threadlock to the flange nut. And tightened it using same method I used for removal. Just be careful.
At this point you still have to put the oil in and install the driveshaft.

The oil filler cap is located at the same side of the differential as the Haldex controller. At the side of the differential case there is a cap. Using a pretty big allen wrench I was able to open it up.
There should go about 800ml of oil when you completely drained the Haldex. The fill plug hole is also the control hole. Once it overflows the normal level is met.

Oh yeah, and this is the oil I got from Volvo.

Now close the cap hole and install the driveshaft same way you removed it.

Oh man this was a LONG writeup. Sorry for lack of pictures. If anyone has any questions I am happy to help out. I hope I got everything right because it's 2am here.





Well done tarmo ..... Thank you.

Idle Chit Chat : Ford EcoSport - Baby Kuga?

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Author: HugaKuga
Subject: Ford EcoSport - Baby Kuga?
Posted: 11 Feb 2014 at 9:30pm

They saved a few pence on the Kuga not moving the front & rear windscreen switches to the left hand side of the dash for UK drivers ...

Edited by HugaKuga - 9 hours 14 minutes ago at 11:46pm
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