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Mk2 Technical : Breakdown Help!

June 24, 2018, 5:41 am
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Author: tractorboy
Subject: Breakdown Help!
Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 12:41pm

Really difficult to diagnose that remotely but I wouldn't drive it with a problem like that.  If you have breakdown cover you get them to come out and have a look, otherwise do you know anyone who is mechanically minded who could have a look for you?  Other than that, it'd be a case of getting a good local independent garage to come out and collect it.  I'd have a look if you were local.

Bob
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Mk2 Technical : Breakdown Help!

June 24, 2018, 5:45 am
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Author: tractorboy
Subject: Breakdown Help!
Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 12:45pm

Is it all-wheel drive?

Bob
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Mk2 Technical : Breakdown Help!

June 24, 2018, 8:30 am
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Author: Paul59
Subject: Breakdown Help!
Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 3:30pm

Like Bob has said difficult to diagnose without seeing it and very good advice in his first post.

If you put your location and type of car in your signature gives people more chance to offer help.

It might be something simple like no oil ! When was it last checked ?

The jolt and grinding noise might not even be related but the grinding noise might be down to little or no oil. 

If lights and warnings are on the dash don't ignore them.

If the dash is telling you you need an oil change get it done.
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Mk2 How-To? : CD player not ejecting CD

June 24, 2018, 1:28 pm
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Author: mad skiier
Subject: CD player not ejecting CD
Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 8:28pm

Once a CD is in, it  tends to stay for a while..
6yrs for my old bus!

However tried to change it for another in the Kuga, I thought the noise was the air con doing its stuff,
but really attempting to eject the CD.

Tried is i might it would not come out, even the 'entertainment system' was saying 'CD not present' or 'no disc' - can't remember.... 

CD plays and works fine. 

Via two hacksaw blades and a bit of fishing got the CD out. 

Tried another - same problem, Tried a new one - same. 

Seems like the rubber rollers are slipping to spit it out the full way.

anybody had the same issues? Or time for a warranty call AGAIN! 

Sync 1 I think... 


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Mk1 General Discussion : Engine malfunction

June 24, 2018, 2:25 pm
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Author: Runnerbean
Subject: Engine malfunction
Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 9:25pm

Hi all need some advise I have a 2010 Kuga 163 AWD and have had the engine malfunction warning light come on each time I drive it and sometimes this comes with the engine management light and sometimes just the red warning triangle, had it plugged in and have been told that the DPF filter is blocked and needs to be clean at a cost of £180 which I guess is like a Terraclean or something similar which I am happy to do if this works but would like to see if I can resolve this any other way. I have taken it for a drive at 3500 rpm for 20-25 mins to try and force a regeneration but so far the light still 're appears and as there is no way of knowing if a forced regen has happened I am at a loss of how to proceed

Any a help would be much appreciated.

Lee
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Mk2 How-To? : CD player not ejecting CD

June 24, 2018, 2:28 pm
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Author: NigelB
Subject: CD player not ejecting CD
Posted: 24 Jun 2018 at 9:28pm

Greasy fingers = over time, slipping rollers.

Esyfix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48HbN1oYk6o
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Mk2 Modifications : K & N filter or not

June 25, 2018, 1:06 am
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Author: Ecomatt
Subject: K & N filter or not
Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 8:06am

I personally would not bother fitting an aftermarket air filter. The same air filter is fitted to both the Focus ST and Focus RS, easily supplying both engines with plenty of air. For our diesel engines that don't need as much air as a petrol engine will easily supply more than enough filtered air to the engine.
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Mk2 Modifications : K & N filter or not

June 25, 2018, 1:39 am
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Author: 4wdKuga
Subject: K & N filter or not
Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 8:39am

In all the back to back tests of a performance filter versus the OE paper filter the results were always inconclusive because it was found the flow efficiency of any performance filter was only better than a paper filter if the OE filter was less efficient.

So basically on some vehicles the paper filter is not as good as the equivalent K&N filter but in some cases the paper filter air flow was actually better.

If you haven`t seen the result of an independant flow test for a particular vehicle then the K&N may improve performance but also it may not be as good as the Paper filter.

I personally stick to the OE paper filter now as Ford has done the testing on the housing and filter design to get the best results - I doubt that K&N has done the same as its a one filter media suits all in a shape that fits the housing.

*
*
Del.


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Mk2 Modifications : K & N filter or not

June 25, 2018, 10:10 am
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Author: PB23
Subject: K & N filter or not
Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 5:10pm

I work in the trade and sell K&N along with Bosch,Fram & Mhale and I can buy 10 paper ones for the cost of 1 K&N and for the few mpg and maybe a few bhp I know where my money is going and before anyone says it’s nowt to do with being Yorkshire
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Mk1 General Discussion : NSF door electrics

June 25, 2018, 11:21 am
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Author: Stillcxey
Subject: NSF door electrics
Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 6:21pm

Hottest day of the year and for the first time in 4 months the central locking works on the NSF door. Hmmmmmmm…

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Mk1 General Discussion : NSF door electrics

June 25, 2018, 12:32 pm
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Author: DPGH
Subject: NSF door electrics
Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 7:32pm

Originally posted by Stillcxey Stillcxey wrote:

Hottest day of the year and for the first time in 4 months the central locking works on the NSF door.

I suspected a heat related intermittent issue with Central Locking. See:-
http://www.kugaownersclub.co.uk/forum/cant-open-nearside-rear-door_topic15698_post139682.html?KW=#139682

It turned out to be a broken Pin / Socket connection on a Mullti-Way Connector that feds the Control Unit in the Door Panel.
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Mk2 Modifications : K & N filter or not

June 25, 2018, 2:42 pm
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Author: mad skiier
Subject: K & N filter or not
Posted: 25 Jun 2018 at 9:42pm

The last three posts are spot on.

the 180hp (2.0ltr) DW engine revs to about 4.5k revs, 
So with the turbo going at full chat sucking in, without doing the calc ~2.8ltrs 

The Focus ST & RS I suspect (2.0ltr? not looked) are doing 6.5 - 7k revs.
So if the same filter element is fitted as you said, easily cope with the Kuga.

Ford put it in a housing for a reason, as a plenum chamber I suspect
and I hope??, done tests for cold, hot, wet & dusty conditions.

K&N reply with - get some oil filter paper, in a gauze, and make it fit - then give it a part No.

I still think a quality new paper one every 10 - 12k miles must be better than
squeezing 25k out of a K&N before re-oiling. My OE Mahle one was definitely past it best at 17,600 mls.


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Mk1 Technical : ALL Mk1 engine management & DPF issues & info

June 25, 2018, 10:07 pm
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Author: Rokuga
Subject: ALL Mk1 engine management & DPF issues & info
Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 5:07am

Hi guys,
I have a 2.0 TDI TITANIUM MK1, the other day I fueled up almost from empty, as soon as I got~120km/h I got the engine malfunction error, I pulled over and stopped/started. All good until I got 120 again.. . I got a friend with a reader, the errors are connected to the two pipe sensor for the exhaus. But I'm wondering: could it be the fuel?! I'll have to wait until next week to go to the mechanic (they're backed up with all the summer vacations and all)..

What do you think?
I'll use the fuel until then and refuel (I won't put additive as the diesel I put in now was supposed to be already the extra additive kind)
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Mk2 Modifications : K & N filter or not

June 26, 2018, 12:43 am
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Author: The Ace
Subject: K & N filter or not
Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 7:43am

There is no question about whether the aftermarket filters flow better than paper, they measurably do, both in incoming air speed, mass and pressure drop. Because of these, they perform measurably better in decreasing spool-up time, throttle response and maximum pressure in turbo-charged engines. To achieve this, they filter slightly less than paper element ("slightly" depends on their construction method and materials). They also increase noise in the engine bay, which may (or may not) reverberate in the passengers' cabin.

The paper element is very cheap, very easy to produce, recyclable and does not require any servicing. It is also very easy to check whether it needs replacing or not (thus speeding up the servising process). It is also a very nice sound proofing material, keeping the engine noice to a minimum.

An after market filter is, more or less, the same deal as with any aftermarket "performance" product, from a performance braking pad to a turbo upgrade or complete internals. You win something, you lose something, depending on how much money you want to spend, and what you want to achieve. In the case of air filters, you gain an approximate 3-5% better air flow, you lose a varying degree of filtering capacity, and you also increase engine noice by a fraction of a dB. You also "win" not having to pay for a new paper filter every year (or two), but you obviously "lose" the cost of the aftermarket filter.

There are also short-rams, cold-air intakes and ram-air intakes, but this is another topic of discussion....


Edited by The Ace - 5 hours 14 minutes ago at 7:46am
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Mk2 Modifications : K & N filter or not

June 26, 2018, 1:53 am
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Author: Ecomatt
Subject: K & N filter or not
Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 8:53am

The actual increase in power from just a drop in filter is going to be almost zero. Plenty of tests have been done that show that aftermarket filters do not flow anymore than the or paper filters. Bob is the oil guy did one and it showed that just from the filter there was no increase in power and the k&n actually had a higher pressure drop than the std filter. The main restrictions on the intake is the intake design itself. If you want more airflow you would do better fitting the air box from the ST with two inlets. I did this on my 1.6 ecoboost Focus and kept the std filter and it worked very well. If you look at the highest marques like Ferrari etc they all use paper filters on their engines which speaks volumes about the aftermarket filters.
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Mk2 Modifications : K & N filter or not

June 26, 2018, 4:57 am
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Author: The Ace
Subject: K & N filter or not
Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 11:57am

Well there are also plenty of tests which show an increase in performance, and the difference has been measured to be about 3-4%, which you could attribute to circumstances, weather conditions, or even measuring/human error, but since the difference is almost always in the positive side, you could accept the hypothesis that the change is also positive (rather than zero or negative).

For instance

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2212017316301475/pdf?md5=d2f70e632c706b1c583eb769b594ce7a&pid=1-s2.0-S2212017316301475-main.pdf

As for flow, since you mention Bob, in his test http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest2.htm he actually measured K&N to be the best flowing, not flow worse than paper, and paper flowed worst than any aftermarket filter, so maybe you are referring to some other test ?

Quote ...For one, there is very little pressure drop across any air filter, and the difference between the best (K&N) and worst (paper) is very small.  Yes as total power output increases, air flow increases, and differential pressure would also increase. So a K&N probably does yield some power on higher output race motors where every last ounce of power must be squeezed out...

...If you are buying a high performance filter for airflow, K&N is tops in this test...

...So it is safe to say from the first test, that the K&N is still the best flowing filter...

The fact that paper is used by almost all manufacturers does not mean that it's the best performance-wise, but that it's the best jack-of-all-trades and ticks all the boxes which all manufacturers have to tick. Things like weather conditions, filtering, engine noise levels, ease of servicing, costs etc, all these play a role.

As for the Ford intake, since I saw with my own eyes how restrictive is the stock intake tract (as is the case with almost all stock intake tracts Wink ), the upgrade to the ST intake and box is my next step, which combined with the aftermarket Raimair cone filter should provide the best solution


Edited by The Ace - 32 minutes ago at 12:08pm
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Mk2 Modifications : K & N filter or not

June 26, 2018, 5:16 am
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Author: Ecomatt
Subject: K & N filter or not
Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 12:16pm

I used to have aftermarket filters but after getting a boost fluctuation using a k&n. I put the paper back in and the fluctuation went away. You don't get smooth air flow with most aftermarket filters which was the issue with my car. I had my stage 2+ Octy VRS on a rolling road using both filters and there was no increase in power. The paper had a smoother graph as the turbulent air was causing the maf to read incorrect. The filters on the Kuga are huge and the paper filters easily can filter more air than the engine needs so works perfectly fine.
I don't think I will bother fitting any other airbox to this car as I it works fine as it is. The most I will do is possibly a remap but that is it. No matter what the companies say they don't filter as well and I don't want any dirt getting into the inlet.
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Mk2 Modifications : K & N filter or not

June 26, 2018, 5:42 am
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Author: The Ace
Subject: K & N filter or not
Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 12:42pm

When installing any aftermarket component in the intake, you always run the risk of disturbing flow/creating turbulences, if you alter (especially when you shorten) the distance between inlet and the MAF. However, this happens only with complete intake kits, when it comes to installing plain panel or cone filters, the worst I've seen is oil getting on and contaminating the MAF, because the owner didn't know how to properly clean and reoil the filter.

Come to think of it, I do remember RacingBeat's REVi intake for the RX8 absolultely needing the two mesh-grills/air straighteners that the stock intake had, since the ECU threw up a CEL if you installed the REVi without these grills (which didn't happen if you removed the grills from the stock intake). Same thing happened with the Corksport intake on the CX7, which needed -and came with- its own air straightener, since the air inlet was just a couple centimeters away from the MAF.

Since I've mentioned the RX8 and the CX7, these are two of the cars which I have dyno-ed before and after installing a complete intake: the RX8 showed a rather paltry 4HP increase (went from 190 stock to 194 with the REVi), while the CX7 showed a more healthy 14HP (went from 246 stock to 260 with the Corksport intake). Well, none of these intakes used an actual K&N filter but different brands of aftermarket filters, but you see what I mean Smile


Edited by The Ace - 6 hours 57 minutes ago at 1:03pm
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Mk2 Technical : 2015 - 1.5l Eco-Boost Engine Failure

June 26, 2018, 11:22 am
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Author: DaveT
Subject: 2015 - 1.5l Eco-Boost Engine Failure
Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 6:22pm

Just to let everyone know that my 2015 (65plate) Kuga Titanium x Sport 1.5L Eco-Boost engine blew up at under 16 thousand miles with number 3 & 4 pistons melting.Question

Luckily the car is still under warranty until September 2018 so I thought that it would be a simple matter of getting the engine replaced and Ford UK did supply a FOC hire car for the duration of the repair.

Unfortunately Arnold Clark are the main agents and that where the troubles started.Censored

Booked in on 23rd April, but they couldn't look at it until 4th May (fully booked), then all they did was take the spark plugs out and say that the two cylinders were full of oil. (they only had to look at the exhausts and see the black oily soot) Then they said that they couldn't look at it again until he 14th May (as they were fully booked),  Uuuuuummmmm isn't my car already booked in - no answer. 

At this point I contacted Ford Customer Relations, I explained the whole sorry tale to them and they raised a case file and complaint against Arnold Clark and started to chase them for some action. 

Come the 14th May they took off the cylinder head and found number 4 piston melted and number 3 part melted so they had to contact Ford. Now I got onto Ford and everything started to move a lot quicker with them pushing the garage, and quickly approving the warranty replacement. 

The garage got the new short engine but again no work commences, by now I onto Ford Customer Relations on a daily basis updating them on Arnold Clarks total lack of knowledge or urgency. 

Jump forward to the end of May and still now further forward (they hadn't ordered all the necessary gaskets) then they had serious fuel leaks and other issues.

Again I contact Ford and during the conversation the complaint manage says "would you like to reject this car" YES i said, then I  start getting calls fro Arnold Clark asking where my car is so they can value it!!!! About 10m behind you I said. 

Eventually their pathetic offer having been rejected by me as I had agreed a price with Ford was accepted by Arnold Clark and following other hassle with their inability to correctly complete the paperwork I got my price paid into the Bank. 

So now we've order an new Toyota Hybrid.Smile

Moral of this sorry tale, Arnold Clark don't know what they are doing and don't care less 

Rant Over Wink and Enjoy the sunny weather while it lasts
Dave

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Mk2 Technical : 2015 - 1.5l Eco-Boost Engine Failure

June 26, 2018, 11:42 am
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Author: NigelB
Subject: 2015 - 1.5l Eco-Boost Engine Failure
Posted: 26 Jun 2018 at 6:42pm

A sorry tale indeed.

Enjoy your new Toyota, which one did you go for?

Don't say a Prius unless you are ready to be flagged down by every drunk who wants a minicab.
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